When Brown's in Tavistock had it's first contemporary makeover, I knew the then manager, Martin Ball and he knew all the tricks for turning what had once been a bland traveller's hotel into a chic, utterly comfortable up to the minute must eat at brasserie. These days he's moved on and is doing other equally interesting things in Herefordshire.

In the days of the first makeover he invited us over to sample the delights of his then chef Charles Hilton, and I am mortified to tell you that the only thing I can fully recall about the meal is that we had pearl barley cooked with carrots and swede and shaped in a mould, and that the chips were utterly regimental in shape and size, and arranged in an exact tower block shape rather like Jenga bricks.

Never seen before or since.

I had been meaning to sample the hotel since new owners Helena King and Phil Biggin took over, so when Rob suggested it for lunch I was more than keen to give it a go.

Pleasantly welcomed through the door. The interior looks much to same as it did in 2002, same chairs, same comfy seating area by 2 large fireplaces - mental note to self - next time we are here we must try morning coffee too.

Allowed to choose a table where we wanted to sit. Interesting menu with just the right number of choices.

Soup of the day with home made bread £5.25 through to sirloin steak, field mushroom, creamed horseradish, Madeira jus at £16.95, chips being extra at £4.25. We chose a smoked salmon sandwich at £6.95 and the smooth liver pate - here called parfait with apricot and walnut chutney at £6.50 and ordered one portion of chips, hand cut, between us, me being keen to see if the Jenga fortress would reappear.

Now I will give you a word of warning here. If you order a salmon sandwich .... it isn't a sandwich, it is this wonderful creation that you see here, with the tomatoes. And if you order the pate, sorry parfait, it does not come with toast.

But before both of these dishes arrived, we were served with the most yummy warm homemade bread in a basket with top quality butter. It smelled divine, so we scoffed it all whilst waiting for the orders to arrive - which of course, when it did come left Rob with no bread/toast for the pate. But all was not lost, the glorious chunky hand cut chips arrived without a sign of Jengaism, and they came to the rescue and transformed Rob's plate in no time.

I gave the meal 10 out of 10. The food without drinks came to £17.70 for the one course. The waitress was sweet and friendly, the loos by the way are excellent. I very much like the quiet calm comfortableness of the place, helped by just the right lighting. When I asked the lad at the bar if he would mind posing for a picture, he posed with pride, obviously happy in his job. I must admit, I wouldn't mind working here too - especially if the chef cooks the staff lunches.!

The question as ever; Would we go back ? Answer: Yes, we could do with going a couple of times a week.

Click here to send us an e-mail - we are always happy to discuss your needs.

Click here to print this page.